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Some gammon and bacon are pork cuts that have been salt-cured. If this is the case it is necessary to soak the meat for a few hours before cooking to remove excess salt. If buying from a butcher make sure to ask if it needs to be soaked and they will be able to advise. When buying a gammon joint from the supermarket look at the packet. To soak a gammon joint put the ham into a large pan and pour over cold water. If your ham is floating to the surface weigh it down with something heavy such as a bottle of wine or a smaller pan.
Leave the meat to soak for hours or overnight before discarding the water and returning the ham to the pan to boil it. The best way to cook ham is to first par-boil it in gently simmering water before removing the skin and roasting in the oven covered in foil. A glaze will give the ham an attractive finish and added flavour. In Larousse Gastronomique , which acts as our go-to cookery bible, they advise first boiling and then roasting the gammon joint.
Boiling ham is a great way to cook the joint without drying it out while making it tender. It is also possible to cook the ham fully by boiling it and serve once cooled. However, the addition of roasting is an opportunity to glaze the ham so it looks and tastes extra splendid. The cooking time will vary demanding on the weight of your meat. To calculate the cooking time of the gammon weigh the joint.
A boneless gammon joint will require about 40 mins of cooking for every kg plus 30 mins. You absolutely can overcook ham. An overcooked ham will be dry. However, if you calculate the correct cooking time this should not happen.
It also uses the time-honoured method of studding your joint with cloves. Spiced Christmas gammon with membrillo glaze.
Bypass the pre-boiling stage and use an all-in-one slow-cooking method. This tropical-tinged gammon recipe is made with treacle, pineapple juice and allspice and slowly cooked in the oven for 4 hours until butter-soft.
Slow-baked sticky gammon. Cook your gammon in a couple of litres of cola to really ramp up the stickiness. The secret to this picture-perfect ham is slow-roasting it in a foil parcel in a spiced apple juice bath. The steamy environment allows the flavours to mingle in a dreamy milieu. The whole thing is finished off with a maple glaze, whole baked apples and golden yes, golden star anise.
Sticky maple-glazed ham with baked apple sauce. Who would turn their nose up at a traditional plate of gammon and mash? The salty ham is paired perfectly with sweet apple and a punchy celeriac mash. This should not only taste good, but look festive too. Grigson outlines the basics in English Food , saying that "the thing is to have a basic mixture of mustard and sweetness" — in her case, French mustard and brown sugar, redcurrant jelly or marmalade, plus double cream and cinnamon or cloves.
Smith has clearly been issued with the same carol sheet, smothering her ham with English mustard and topping it with demerara sugar. Prince disagrees — in Ham, Pickles and Jam, she offers three options for a sticky glazed ham, only one of which involves mustard. The second, which I decide to try, replaces the mustard powder with plain flour and uses soft brown sugar and either sherry or orange juice.
The guiding principle seems to be to ensure there's something dry in the topping, whether that's flour or mustard powder, so it forms a thick paste and doesn't simply slide off the joint as it heats like McLagan's port, honey and sugar mixture. Prince's sugary, floury glaze which I put on Grigson's ham by mistake gives the best result: a crunchy, solid crust with a lovely sweetness to it.
But I miss the heat of the mustard, so I decide to adopt the same principle, making a thick paste, but using mustard powder instead of flour. Adding breadcrumbs, as Grigson suggests, does provide temporary crunch, but they quickly go soggy when the ham cools, so I'm steering clear on this occasion.
There are several options for the sweet element of proceedings: I find Lawson's treacle rather bitter after heating and McLagan's honey too subtle, so dark brown sugar seems the ideal compromise. Instead of Grigson's marmalade, which I like but fear will loosen the mixture, I'm adding orange zest for a festive hint of citrus.
The mixture does need some liquid, of course, and Prince's sherry worked pretty well, but really, what could be more Christmassy than my old favourite, ginger wine, which combines spice and booze in one glorious package? Temperature-wise, a shortish blast in hot oven, as Lawson and Smith suggest, works better for crisping than Grigson's slower cooking at a more moderate heat. Smith's mustard and brown sugar glazed ham looks lovely — a vibrant yellow colour — and although it's not quite Christmassy enough for my taste, I find that sprinkling on a little extra sugar once the glaze is on, as she does with her mustard, gives a more even caramelisation.
Rich, dark and spicy sweet, this is a ham which should carry on bringing festive cheer long after the big day is over.
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