Most are fast growers and with support from a trellis, arbor, or pergola, vines can be trained to cover nearly any surface. Their long stems latch onto walls, rocks, and vertical supports to grow toward sunlight. Which vine is right for your garden? In warmer climates bougainvillea and jasmine will add color and fragrance to a fence or wall. In temperate climates, wisteria will go wild keep it in check with frequent pruning.
Ivies and creeping fig pumila will create a flat green backdrop if you keep them in check cut them back to avoid redundant layering. Keith Hammett in New Zealand has expanded the colour range to include smokey orange, true turquoise blue, almost black as well as bicolor combinations never seen before.
Sweet pea thrive best in cool temperatures, as hot temperatures trigger the plant to cease flowering and set seeds. In areas with hot summers like Southern Ontario, it is best to start them in February or March indoors and plant out seedlings in early spring, after the threat of frost, to get a head start. I currently live in Vancouver and the cool summer temperatures here allow me to extend the blooming period by starting a second crop of seeds in late spring for planting out in early June so that they bloom in late summer to fall after the first early spring planted crop is done flowering.
The Exhibition Spencer varieties, with large blowsy flowers, can grow to the top of an 8' trellis in a few months and dwarf forms are available that are the perfect size for tumbling out of a window box. Since sweet peas are annuals, if you don't like the colour you get this year, you can try a different variety next year.
A word of warning though, sweet peas are poisonous — especially the seeds, so don't mistake them for edible peas. Finally, remember to deadhead remove the faded flowers and bloom stems so that all of the plant's energy is focused on flowering instead of seed production. JP: It depends on your preference. Some might prefer the intricate flowers of the Ontario and Quebec native groundnut Apios americana , while others in western Canada might prefer the delicate blue flowers of the native western blue virginsbower Clematis occidentalis var.
If you're more of a classical gardener, you might enjoy the large, showy flowers of cultivated varieties of Clematis or the classic, fragrant, and pendulous racemes of wisteria flowers. SL: Though it's difficult to suggest something that will grow everywhere in Canada, clematis hybrids are likely your best bet.
These are hybrids involving various wild Asian, European and American species. Some can take a bit of shade but full sun maximizes flower production. There are species that bloom in spring, summer, fall — and if you live in Zone 8, on the sunny coast of British Columbia or have access to a cold greenhouse, even winter bloomers too. For sheer simplicity and hardiness throughout much of Canada, I would recommend 'Polish Spirit'.
This is a Zone 4 clematis hybrid, has dark purple blooms and a delicate looking vine, but boasts a hardy constitution. It blooms over a long period starting in June and if deadheaded and lightly pruned after flowering, will bloom into September. While this plant needs to be pruned to a height of 4" from the ground in early spring, it will climb to the top of a 10' tall trellis by bloom time.
Give it a sunny spot, plant some low growing perennials at the base to keep the roots cool, water and feed it well and it will give you lots of colour with minimal care. SL: I have had good luck with climbing hydrangea Hydrangea petiolaris. A native of Japan, it's a woody climber that is hardy to Zone 5. This species can vine its way up a chain link fence, ascend a north facing brick wall, or even a dead tree trunk in a shady location without any assistance.
It will take a year or two to establish a robust root system before it starts to climb following planting but you can expedite this process by buying as big a plant as you can afford and watering it deeply so that it never dries out.
Once the vine is established, it will produce masses of white lacy flower heads that turn green and then brown as they age. The leaves turn a nice buttery yellow in the fall and once they fall, the buff flaky bark of the stout branches is exposed.
In snowy areas, the twigs and dead flower heads catch the snow and create interesting effects in the winter garden.
SL: Each species has specific needs. All vines need a good head start, so dig a planting hole two times the size of its root ball larger if you can and mix a 2" thick layer of well-rotted manure or compost into the hole. In general, good plant cultivation in well-amended soil with sufficient light and water will help vines climb and spread.
However, too much feeding may encourage growth of foliage at the expense of flowers, this is especially true for rampant growers like Wisteria or Morning Glories that flower best in poor soil.
JP: Similar to most trees, shrubs, and perennials, when vines are planted in the landscape they will go through a period of transplant shock. The first year they sleep, the second year they creep and the third year they leap. After planting, it is important to irrigate your new plants as necessary. For most vines, additional nutrition fertilizer should not be necessary if the proper vine is chosen for the location.
Make sure that you allow the vine good access to the structure which it will grow on. This means you may need some temporary braces in order for it to reach the final destination. Consider strategic pruning in the early years to keep stems going in the direction you prefer. If you are growing clematis, keep track of which types you grow as this will determine the best methods of pruning that is required pruning clematis can be broken down into three groups, each with a different method of pruning.
JP: Too many to count. Some of the worst, most destructive invasive plant species are vines. The combination of a rapid growth rate, excessive seed production, ability to root along their stems, capacity to strangle other plants, and overall the competitive nature of vines has allowed many species to become problematic.
The potential for invasiveness depends on your location but in many parts of Canada, some of these species are already established invasives and some species are ones which we should be wary of planting due to the potential to invade as demonstrated in other regions of the world. It is important to recognize the invasive potential and to eradicate the problems early before these species get too far out of control.
Others will stand up better to being pruned in stages, over three or four years. Remove a portion of the vine's oldest stems each year, cutting them back to a foot above the ground. Rejuvenation pruning is best done is spring, at the same time new growth begins. Rather than treat a problem, avoid trouble by keeping climbers healthy. Give plants the amount of light they prefer, don't crowd them, and don't over-fertilize.
Keep the planting area clean: Pull weeds and remove debris. Don't prune when foliage is wet; use clean shears, loppers, and saws. Immediately remove any leaves, stems, and flowers that appear to be diseased. When problems do occur, begin with the least toxic solution, such as hand-picking pests like Japanese beetles, hosing the vine with a sharp water spray, or treating with a dormant oil.
Reserve botanical pesticides for the most serious problems, remembering that although these remedies are organic, they are poisons. Protection : Gardeners in cold regions should protect their marginally hardy vines by mulching their bases. To provide even more protection, wrap the vine's topgrowth with burlap. In hot areas, it may be necessary to provide vines with afternoon shade.
Barriers are rarely successful, so coastal gardeners are better off planting climbers that will succeed in oceanside settings. Andrew Bunting is the curator of the Scott Arboretum of Swarthmore College, in Swarthmore, Pennsylvania, and the owner of Fine Garden Creations, a garden design and installation business.
Each year he teaches a six-week course on ornamental vines at Longwood Gardens , in Kennett Square, Pennsylvania.
We just planted a trumpet creeper in a pot. Will it be ok in the winter? Any tips would be appreciated! My chocolate vines have not bloomed—leaves are small and seem stunted. What is the problem? Please keep your comments relevant to this article. Comments are moderated and will be posted after BBG staff review. Your email address is required; it will not be displayed, but may be needed to confirm your comments. Gardening How-to Articles.
Four Seasons of Vine Work Spring Prune vines that flower on this year's growth; remove any damaged or dead stems from all vines. Sow seeds of annual vines. Plant perennial vines in cold regions. Mulch and feed vines. Tie and train vines as needed. Summer Prune vines that flower on old growth. Make sure plants receive adequate water. Collect seeds. Plant perennial vines in warm regions.
Clean up area around base of vines. Mulch vines for winter protection. Winter Sow seeds of perennial and woody vines. Check that vines are secured to their supports. Prune hardiest vines that flower on new growth.
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